Let's take a deep dive into the surprising (and sometimes strange) history behind one of the most universal beauty products.
1. Ancient Origins: The First Lip Treatments
Across continents and centuries, ancient cultures relied on oils, waxes, and animal fats to keep lips hydrated in harsh environments from desert heat to icy winds. Lip care wasn’t just cosmetic, it was practical, ritualistic, and deeply embedded in daily life.
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Ancient Egyptians used a mix of beeswax, olive oil, and animal fats to moisturize and protect their lips from the harsh desert climate. Balms were often scented or tinted with natural pigments like carmine.
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Indigenous North American tribes crafted protective salves from tallow (animal fat), pine resin, and medicinal herbs to shield lips and skin from windburn and sun.
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African communities used shea butter, a rich emollient from the shea tree, to keep lips soft and hydrated in arid regions — a practice still in use today.
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Greeks and Romans applied olive oil and lanolin (from sheep’s wool) to soothe dry skin and lips, viewing it as both beauty care and medical treatment.
- Ancient Chinese apothecaries combined camellia oil and beeswax into early balms for protecting the lips and maintaining a youthful appearance.
These early remedies laid the foundation for what we now recognise as lip balm. While the packaging and formulations may have changed, the core idea remains the same: protect, nourish, and restore.
Today's balms are a refined evolution of these time-tested traditions. Still rooted in nature, but backed by modern science.
2. The 1800s: The Birth of Commercial Lip Care
In 1829, American physician Lydia Maria Child suggested a homemade remedy for chapped lips using earwax (yes, really). Thankfully, by the late 1800s, more refined options arrived.
In 1880, Dr. Charles Browne Fleet (the same man who invented ChapStick) began developing a stick of lip salve.
By 1912, his invention was sold to John Morton, who began marketing ChapStick in the iconic black-and-white tubes. At first, it looked like a candle wrapped in tinfoil.
3. The 1900s: Lip Balm Goes Mainstream
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1930s–1950s:
Lip balm became a medicine cabinet staple. Brands like Carmex and Vaseline promoted petroleum jelly-based products as cures for cold sores, sunburn, and cracked lips. -
1970s–1980s:
A wave of flavoured, scented, and coloured lip balms entered the market. Including the now iconic Lip Smackers by Bonne Bell. They weren’t about skin health, but more about fun, flavour, and youth appeal. Coca-Cola-scented balm, anyone? -
1990s:
Lip balm addiction theories gained traction. Many blamed ingredients like camphor and menthol for drying out lips and creating an endless reapplication loop. Whether or not true, it sparked skepticism about what ingredients should not be in your balm.
4. What Happened to Lip Balm in the 2000s?
Most lacked any ingredients that replenished skin and many dried lips out even more.
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The Era of Wax & Flavour Over Function
The early 2000s were all about overuse and over-fragrance. Wax-heavy balms full of synthetic flavours and menthol ruled the shelves. They smelled great, but did little to actually nourish the lip barrier (and often made things worse). The focus? Flavours, scents, and "fun", not skin health.
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The Lip Balm Addiction Myth
This decade popularised the idea that lip balm was "addictive." But what was actually happening? Many balms were packed with occlusive-only ingredients that trapped moisture short-term, while offering zero reparative or replenishing benefits. People reapplied obsessively because their lips never got better.
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Lack of Skin-First Science
Most lip balms weren’t formulated like skincare. They didn’t mimic the skin’s natural lipid structure, replenish what was lost, or account for barrier health. Hydration was superficial at best
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The Matte Lipstick Craze
It was also the era of matte lipstick dominance, meaning lips were under more stress than ever. Repeated use of drying formulas with no barrier support created the now-familiar cycle of constantly reapplying balm, with no actual improvement.
5. Today: The Skincare-First Lip Balm Revolution
Modern lip care has evolved. Over 60% of people now consider lip balm part of their daily skincare routine.
Consumers today now expect more. Not just scent and shine, but real results. Brands like MDW represent a new generation of lip balm:
- Barrier-supportive with emollients and skin-mimicking oils
- Minimalist but effective, using fewer, better ingredients
- Designed like skincare with formulas that hydrate, protect and heal
Today, the most effective lip balms look a lot like skin treatments, with more attention to ingredient sourcing, texture, and how the balm performs over time.
TL;DR: Lip balm has come a long way.
From beeswax and animal fat to glossy sticks and antioxidant-rich formulas, lip care has evolved with our knowledge of skin. But one thing hasn’t changed: our need for comfort, protection, and relief from dryness.
And now, thanks to better ingredients and smarter formulations, lip balm isn’t just for chapped lips, it’s a daily essential for everyone with skin.